The Art of Fly Fishing for Winter Steelhead - 
By "Chef"

OK, perhaps it is more like shooting craps or playing the lotto than it is an art. Luck has a lot to do with winter steelheading, but there is more to it than just that. The following article is my take on fly fishing for the elusive winter steelhead.

I fly fished the first two weeks in January of 1994 before I got my first strike from a winter steelhead. I was unemployed at the time and fresh out of high school, with nothing better to do with half of a day than fish. As that winter progressed, I fished with some incredible people, who taught me the ins and outs of winter trout fishing. In my attempt to pass along some of the info taught to me over the years, it is my hope that I can help someone that reads this to understand where I am coming from and influence them to think along the same lines. I am at a point in my life where I can go out trout fishing and call a fishless day on the river a great day.
 
When I hit the river with fly rod in hand, I try to increase my chances of catching a fish by going when conditions are optimal. Warm weather trends are a good place to start. If the weather has been 10 degrees for a week straight and it has been forecast that tomorrow will be 20-25 degrees, that's a good time to go. The warmer weather will allow for the fish to expend a little more energy while feeding. I have found that fishing at the warmest part of the day until the sun goes down has been the most productive. The river water will warm during the day and it takes time for the heat to dissipate in the evening.
 
I use my 8 weight rod for steelheading. However, I have known people to use as small as a 6 weight rod for these fish. I use the heavier rod for two reasons. One, I have more control of the fish, and two; I am too cheap to purchase a 7 weight when my 8 performs so well. As for a reel, I recommend that you use one with both line capacity and a good disk drag. I use a Harris Solitude IV, but Ross, Orvis, and many others make great reels that have as much as, or more, bang for the buck. As for line, I recommend you have two types. First, for chuck and duck, you need some sort of running line, be it Amnesia, Courtland, or some other type, that you can get down to the bottom and have it stay there. 




Double Click on picture to enlarge



With my chuck and duck rig, I use amnesia for running line, connected by a loop connection, to heavy mono (about 15#). I then slide on a snap swivel to connect a slinky, or other weight to the line. I tie a barrel swivel on the line and connect my leader (6# mono) to the other end of the swivel. I usually use a tandem fly rig in the winter. (See above diagram) 

When chuck and ducking, you should cast out slightly upstream (about 11 o'clock). You should feel a slight ticking of the bottom as your flies bounce down the river. Always complete your entire drift. You should not retrieve your line until it has drifted directly down stream of you. I have had many strikes at the end of my drift as my flies came to a rest. Once a complete drift has been made, strip your line back in and recast to the same place as you started. After a couple of unproductive drifts, I generally strip out a couple more feet of line and cast a little farther into the hole. This allows me to cover more water and not waste time in an unproductive spot.

Next, you need a floating line for indicator (bobber) fishing. I use a double taper, which is easier for me, but you may want a weight forward type. I connect my tapered leader to my fly line with a loop connection. I then slide an indicator (I use ice fishing bobbers) on my line. Add just enough split shot to get your flies to the bottom.


Double Click on picture to enlarge

When fishing with indicators, there are a few things that you need to keep in mind. The water depth should always indicate your leader length. Your leader length should be 1- 1 1/2 times the depth of the water to properly drift through a hole. Line control is a must when fishing indicators. Your goal is to achieve a drag free drift. To obtain a drag free drift, you must be able to mend your line. Just after casting, do a big mend in the line. As you drift farther down the river, do smaller mends as needed. While indicators will help in detection of strikes, it will also help provide information about how the fly/weight is reacting to the water column below. If your indicator is dragging down the river with the top of it pointing down stream, you need to shorten your leader slightly. However, if your indicator is standing straight up and never hanging up or tilting down river, you need to lengthen your leader. A perfect dead drift occurs when your indicator is standing straight to slightly down stream. A strike can be detected by the indicator stopping, going under, or just slightly slowing down.

I primarily use flies that are small and natural looking; green caddis, stones, hexes, egg flies, sparrows, and PM wigglers, to name a few. I generally carry a vast assortment of sizes of each of these flies. I use anywhere from a size 14 PM wiggler to a size 6 stone fly.

Fish undercut banks, pocket water and the seams in the current,. In the dead of winter, one of the most overlooked places to find fish is near springs and small feeder creeks that enter the river. The water in these springs is generally warmer than the main stream. Shallow gravel bars on bright, cold sunny days also tend to hold fish. They seem to come up and let the sun warm them.

When approaching the river to fish, I stand and watch the water for a good 10 minutes. This allows me to watch the currents and also to watch for signs of any actively feeding fish. Look for swirls and flashes from the fish as they feed, while studying the currents for pockets and seams. When entering the river, be sure not to overlook the 1 to 2 feet of water leading up to the hole. Give it a few drifts and see what comes of it. Many times I have hastily entered the water, and overlooked the shallower water, just to see one or two fish bolt for cover. 

Fish each hole systematically. Start at the front (closest to you) and work farther in as you fish. This prevents you from spooking the fish with your line before they have a chance to even see your fly. To fish the deep dark holes or the very fast currents, I use the chuck and duck method, as mentioned above. For the seams and slower pocket water, I use the method of indicator (bobber) fishing. Fish these places the same as you would chuck and duck. Work from the front of the hole to the back. Careful mending of the line is needed for indicator fishing to allow for a drag free drift.

Winter steelheading can be a miserable experience if you aren't dressed appropriately. So, as you're dressing warm to go to the river, just remember why you really fish. Catching fish makes for a great day on the river. Somehow, though, stopping while out there and taking in the sights and sounds of the river, the snow falling into the water, the chickadee hopping from branch to branch, or that doe and her young coming down for a drink, does something powerful to one's soul. The peace and tranquility you get fishing in the winter is unbeatable. It isn't rare to fish the entire day and not see another person. You will be able to enjoy the river in its crisp, clean beauty in solitude. After taking all of that in, how important is it that you actually catch a fish? If you do, it is yet another highlight of your river experience. Robert Traver, author of "Testament of a Fisherman", summed up my thoughts well when he said, I fish "not because I regard fishing as being so terribly important, but because I suspect that so many other concerns of men are equally unimportant and not nearly so much fun."